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Here's the problem - I need my Bluetooth Low Energy-Only device to be able to connect to Windows 7 computers. Preferably using a regular CSR dongle, if possible. Is there any way or workaround?
I spent the two last days googling stuff to make my designer mouse working on my Lenovo T450 under Windows 7.
The solution I found may not apply to everyone: your computer must have a Bluetooth 4.0 capability (which as I understand allows Bluetooth Low Energy (aka BLE or Bluetooth Smart) to work.
The BLE drivers are not native to Windows 7 so you need to install them: go to your manufacturer's website and download the latest Intel Bluetooth drivers. Depending on the make, they might have various combinations of drivers (sometimes with overall wireless drivers, sometimes Bluetooth separately,.. I had to try about 3 - 4 different without really knowing what they meant). Once those drivers installed, you should be able to see your mouse/keyboard and pair to them.
I had to reboot my laptop multiple times and had to download a lot of different drivers from various sources but the one thing that worked was googling: Intel Bluetooth driver "your laptop make and model" and downloading the drivers.
Ps. I have also downloaded the "Microsoft Mouse and Keyboard Center" application and although opening it and trying to use it did not help at all, it might have help setting something in the background that made the drivers get installed smoothly (not an IT person, I have no idea).
I hope it helps!
Good luck
You need Bluetooth hardware that supports Bluetooth 4.0 or higher. Then just install the driver for Windows 7. Don't use Windows' internal update service (its lying and will tell you that your driver is up to date). I used this:
https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/28510/Intel-Wireless-Bluetooth-for-Windows-7-
Well, Logitech Mx Anywhere 2 surprisingly started working with Windows 7 (Dell 380 Module on E6430 laptop) with IVT Bluesoleil Stack (unfortunately not freeware). Context menu of its icon in tray has "Bluetooth 4.0 functions", that allow adding BLE/Smart devices.
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So, I've been using my laptop with windows 10 for over three years and everything was cool, all programs and games were working good, and I've not changed any hardware recently, until suddenly 5 days ago it started to act weird, the nvidia logo kept showing and disappearing multiple times non stop, and some games randomly close while playing for like 2-5 minutes and some of them don't even run at all, and that all happend while there was no internet connected to my laptop.
So, at first I thought it was a virus, so I formated the C drive and installed another newer version of windows 10, but then the same problem happened, there was also no internet connected to my laptop, and not just that, a newer problem happend, there were multiple services that were running in the background and using almost all of the cpu, memory, and disk resources, services like "Antimalware Service Executable, Application Layer Gateway, SNMP, Microsoft (R) Diagnostics, and others", and then I formated the C drive and installed the previous version of windows 10 (the one that I was working with for over 3 years), and it now have both problems, even though this version of windows 10 that I used for over 3 years was working really good with no problems, so, I'm starting to lose my mind, I tried everything I know.
Could it be a hardware issue or a virus that is in another drive (other than c drive) or what is the deal here?
I tried to scan the C drive with Windows Defender and it scans for about 15 mins and then it just freezes with no warnings or errors, I can only cancel it.
My specs:
Laptop: Dell Latitude E6430
CPU: Intel Core i5 3340m
GPU: NVIDIA NVS 5200m
RAM: 12GB DDR3
Storage: SSD 480GB ADATA (only two drives: C drive and D drive)
*The windows 10 version I was working with for over 3 years: 1809
*The new windows 10 version i tried: 2004
I would really appreciate any help.
Thank you so much for your time.
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I frequently switch between using my Galaxy Buds with my phone and computer. I've found the most trouble-free way to do this is to turn off bluetooth on one device and switch. What I would like to do it simply create a Windows 10 batch script that turns on bluetooth (if currently off), and connect to my buds. Is there any easy solution? It would save me like 4 clicks but I think I would appreciate the convenience.
You can use pnputil to disable or enable your Bluetooth driver using the pnputil driver servicing tool. As for specifically connecting to a bluetooth device through CMD, as far as I know, I don't believe that it is possible but I believe that you can in powershell.
(Looking at the Blutooth diagnostic files under C:\Windows\diagnostics\system\Bluetooth, they are all powershell and running it, may reset the driver, so it should be possible to use part of that code.)
# scan bluetooth devices
pnputil.exe /enum-devices /class bluetooth
# ... a long list of Bluetooth related items.
# Look for something like:
Instance ID: USB\VID_0CF3&PID_E500\5&2a9042b0&0&4
Device Description: Qualcomm Atheros QCA9377 Bluetooth
Class Name: Bluetooth
Class GUID: {e0cbf06c-cd8b-4647-bb8a-263b43f0f974}
Manufacturer Name: Qualcomm Atheros Communications
Status: Started
Driver Name: oem41.inf
# Disable this device:
$ pnputil.exe /disable-device "USB\VID_0CF3&PID_E500\5&2a9042b0&0&4"
Microsoft PnP Utility
Disabling device: USB\VID_0CF3&PID_E500\5&2a9042b0&0&4
System reboot is needed to complete configuration operations!
Take note of Device ID!
To re-enable:
$ pnputil.exe /enable-device "BTH\MS_BTHBRB\6&6d7d961&0&1"
Microsoft PnP Utility
Failed to enable device: BTH\MS_BTHBRB\6&6d7d961&0&1
Device is pending system reboot to complete a previous operation.
Don't listen, instead go into settings and toggle the Bluetooth flip a few times.
UPDATE: 2022-11-29
Strangely enough after having rebooted once, and now running the same pnutils commands in admin shell, I no longer get asked to reboot.
For completeness:
When Bluetooth USB device is disabled.
When Bluetooth USB device is enabled, but BT switched OFF.
When Bluetooth USB device is enabled, but BT switched ON.
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I have bought today a NodeMCU v2 (I think).
I connected my NodeMCU to my laptop with a microUSB to USB cable, the same one that I use to transfer photos from my phone to my laptop. The laptop simply does not show me the NodeMCU while connected (I am running Windows 8 for reference). It makes the little sound when I plug it in (also a small blue light flashes once) or out and the Wi-Fi AI-THINKER_2CD750 appears in the Wi-Fi tab.
It doesn't try to install the drivers or anything, nothing happens. I tried to install the drivers myself from the github page, that did not work either, it says that they are preinstalled.
It happened to me too. For me The board was bad. After replacing with new one it was working with same drivers
I had to install the driver for the NodeMCU manually: https://github.com/nodemcu/nodemcu-devkit/tree/master/Drivers. Afterwards, it worked.
I had the same problem on a Mac (Big Sur) and Windows 10. Tried everything. Saw this about the USB ports, still no love. Then I swapped out the cable for giggles and it worked. So much time wasted. I used the cable in the past and it worked, also it powered on the device so I was lured into a false sense of security. Anyway, swapping out the cable did the trick. Test a second cable even if you think you are sure the cable is not the problem!
Okay, I faced a similar error where my NodeMCU was being detected as a faulty CP2101 device.
I tried to install the NodeMCU drivers but it didn't work.
Then I landed up using this link: https://www.silabs.com/developers/usb-to-uart-bridge-vcp-drivers to install the CP210x Universal Windows Driver.
This was installed correctly and I was able to use the NodeMCU again.
I would also recommend taking a look at your board. Not all the ESP8266 development boards use the same peripherals. So you'll have to find a driver accordingly.
For future people with this issue try using a USB 2.0 port. I had mine plugged into a 3.0 and it wouldn't detect.
My troubleshooting (with NodeMCU 12-E, V3):
I tried plugging it after removing the driver from the Device Manager in Windows 10, reinstalling the (CH341SER) driver and 3 cable swaps. In the end my laziness foced me to use my 2.0 front panel. The 3.0 everywhere else wouldn't work.
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I need two systems running, with a mic on system A going to speakers on system B, and vice versa, in realtime.
I currently have three systems set up:
Fedora
Jack works fine
Ubuntu
Jack has problems recognizing microphones
Windows
Jack works fine
I can connect Jack between the two linux systems fine, but since the ubuntu system is having jack problems regarding microphones, I'm trying to get Windows to communicate with either of them, to no avail so far. I've tried googling around but people seem to either say "It works!" or "It has problems!" without giving details.
Is there a canonical method for using netjack W<->L?
Would really appreciate any help I can get on this.
you could try jacktrip, that has an experimental windows client.
people also reported that soundjack.eu is supposed to work great, but i have never tested it (and couldn't find a linux client on their website)
I was able to get audio playback working from Windows to Linux with netjack2.
I did a small write-up of it here: https://gist.github.com/kotarou3/3813bbf7833a0e4618f7fbe8a377872d
Partially quoting here for posterity:
Stream audio from Windows to Linux
Tested on Ubuntu 16.04 and Windows 10 Redstone 1
Both boxes need to be on the same network (such that multicast packets
can be passed between them)
Installing
Linux
Setup JACK (easy to do with Cadence)
Windows
Install JACK and ASIO Bridge on the Windows
box
Run regsvr32 32bits\JackRouter.dll and regsvr32 64bits\JackRouter.dll from JACK installation directory
Modify 32bits\JackRouter.ini and 64bits\JackRouter.ini to match your channel and sample config
(Optional) Set the ASIO Bridge (Hi-Fi Audio) input as the default playback device
Running
Start the netjack2 server on Linux with jack_load netmanager (probably also possible to add to .jackdrc for it to autoload)
Run JACK NetDriver on Windows (it's in the Start menu), or jackd -R -d net
A new device named the hostname of the Windows box should have appeared on the Linux JACK patch panel
(Catia if you're
using Cadence). Connect it as you see fit (Note: Channels might not
match up as expected if you have more than 2).
Run ASIO Bridge (also in the Start menu), turn ASIO on, and set the ASIO device to JackRouter
The ASIO Bridge should have automatically set up routes to the system device in the Windows JACK patch panel. You can double check
with qjackctl (Jack Control in the Start menu) → Connections
and connect them if not
I imagine this can be further adapted to get microphone input from Windows as well by using Windows' microphone to speaker loopback feature (it's in the microphone config for Windows 10), albeit at the cost of more latency.
Basically get Windows to send the microphone to the ASIO Bridge input.
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My windows workstation is pretty well setup. I dislike laptop keyboards because everybody has their own setup of the keys, and since I am a touch typist, I use a standard QWERTY 101 keyboard.
I am just starting Mac development.
What is a good keyboard to get for my shiny new Macbook Pro?
What should I look for in a good monitor for the Macbook Pro?
Is there a KVM switch that I can use to flip between the Macbook Pro and my Windows workstation?
I would get a standard US Layout Apple Wired Keyboard, a Dell 27" ultra sharp monitor... They use the same panels as the Apple plant for a fraction of the price.
as for a KVM switch, no experience with that, you can however install windows on your mac using bootcamp (recommended).
Our setup for developing with a MacBook Pro consists of:
Griffin Elevator (http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/elevator)
Apple Keyboard with Numeric Pad (http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB110LL/A)
A Dell monitor with Display Port such as the UltraSharp U2211H (http://accessories.dell.com/sna/products/Displays/productdetail.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=dhs&cs=19&sku=320-9271)
A Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable from Monoprice (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10246&cs_id=1024606&p_id=6006&seq=1&format=2)
Any mouse you feel comfortable with
Keyboard: I use the Apple keyboard with numeric pad (wired). I have tried other keyboards, but they tend not to work very well when I run Windows under BootCamp. (It sounds like you have a separate Windows machine, though, so this might not be a problem for you.) I have tried several keyboards and have found that only the Apple keyboards work really well with the Mac. The primary reason for this is the quick key shortcuts
Monitor: I use a Dell Monitor 24" my with Mac. It has multiple inputs including a DisplayPort, which will work well with your MacBook Pro. You just need the displayport adapter from MonoPrice (www.monoprice.com).
As an alternative, you mention the use of a KVM. In my experience, cheap KVMs are cheap and do not work well. I have used KVMs from several manufacturers. The one I have found to be the best is one from Avocent (www.avocent.com). They have KVMs that are called SwitchView Desktop KVMs and they work very well. They have ones that work with DVI ports. You can get a DVI adapter for your MacBook Pro.
If you are looking for a keyboard/mouse combo, I would recommend the Logitech products. I recommend the ones that are NOT Bluetooth. They can be plugged into the Avocent KVM and work perfectly.
Hope this helps!